Built to stay: A practical guide to clothes that last
Buying better doesn’t mean spending more. It means paying attention. Before a garment becomes a part of your wardrobe, it is already telling you how long it wants to stay. Most of us shop based on silhouette, brand, or trend. But the truth is, clothes reveal their intentions in the seams, the stitching, the weight of the fabric - if you are ready to look.
There is a strange irony in how much care goes into making a garment, regardless of the brand, and how little care we often give it after we buy it. The average person doesn´t think twice about tossing a sweater in the wash after a single wear, cramming jackets into an overstuffed closet, or letting a rip quietly retire an otherwise good pair of pants. The phrase “take care of your clothes” might sound outdated, but it is more relevant than ever. In a cycle of constant buying and replacing, care is what creates continuity. Over time, the pieces you keep and maintain start to carry their own character. A softened collar, a slight fade in color, a small hole here and there - these marks do not reduce value, they add to it. Thin about the good old leather jacket - it only gets better as they age.
When we shop, it’s easy to be swayed by the price tag, the brand name, or the latest trend. However, behind every garment—whether it’s from luxury houses like Dior or fast fashion giants like Shein—there are workers who put in the labor to make it. What truly defines a garment’s value is not just its brand or price but how well it was made, the quality of the fabric, and how we treat it long after the purchase. Understanding this helps us become more conscious consumers and, in turn, better stewards of our wardrobes.
People Behind the Garment (Please note: While this image shows a well-equipped studio, it does not reflect the reality for most garment workers - many of whom are women working under exploitative and often unsafe conditions worldwide.)
The People Behind the Garment: A Silent Workforce
Regardless of whether you’re buying from luxury fashion houses or the fast fashion market, there’s one constant: people are working hard to bring those garments to life. Often, those working in garment factories face long hours, low pay, and harsh conditions—something most of us don’t consider when grabbing that dress off the sale rack. Even luxury brands have complicated supply chains that rely on workers in various parts of the world. In the case of fast fashion, the exploitation of labor tends to be much more apparent. But regardless of the price, every item of clothing represents human labor, which deserves our respect.
Understanding the ethical implications of where our clothing comes from should play a role in the way we shop. While purchasing from a high-end designer may seem like a status symbol, it’s important to remember that workers in those supply chains are often not compensated in a way that reflects the exorbitant retail prices. On the other end of the spectrum, fast fashion offers affordable options, but those come at a hidden cost—namely, the wages of garment workers.
By becoming more aware of these issues, we can appreciate that each garment, no matter its price, represents a small piece of someone’s hard work. This understanding might shift our mindset about consumption, helping us make more intentional purchases that are both thoughtful and respectful of the people who make them.
Identifying Fabric Quality (©picture: EdieLou)
Identifying Fabric Quality: The Sustainability Question
A cotton shirt may seem like a classic, timeless piece, but it’s essential to dig deeper into its true environmental impact. Cotton, although biodegradable, requires vast amounts of water to cultivate, and the process of growing and harvesting cotton often involves significant environmental degradation. Additionally, its lifespan is shorter compared to fabrics like linen or hemp, which are not only more durable but also require far fewer resources to produce.
When shopping, it’s crucial to assess the fabric and its sustainability. Does the item use organic cotton, which is farmed with fewer pesticides and chemicals? Is the fabric biodegradable, ensuring that when it’s discarded, it won’t linger in a landfill for years to come? As consumers, we need to educate ourselves on how different fibers impact the environment and our wardrobes in the long run.
Consider also the durability of the fabric. Linen, hemp, wool, and even some sustainable man made fabrics like rayon or Tencil (cellulose based textiles) can outlast cotton and synthetic fabrics, making them a better long-term investment for your wardrobe. A good way to assess durability is by feeling the fabric’s weight and texture. Does it feel sturdy, or does it feel like it might tear after a few wears? A shirt made from a cheap, low-quality cotton blend may look good at first, but after a few washes, it may begin to lose its shape, fade, or develop holes. On the other hand, a well-made linen shirt may last decades when properly cared for.
However, different materials behave differently. Knowing what a garment is made of will help you to understand how it ages and what kind of care it needs. There is no such a thing as magic garment. Each on their own has its up and down sides. Cotton is breathable and versatile, but frequent hot washes can shrink it and weaken the fibers, and in the production process its water consumption is insane. Linen is extremely durable, less thirsty, softens beautifully over time but wrinkles like hell. Wool is naturally odour-resistant, needs less cleaning, it is hydrophilic - the inner core of wool fibers, known as the cortex, is hydrophilic, this allows wool to absorb water vapour up to about 30% of its weight, without feeling wet - and hydrophobic - the outer surface of wool fibres, covered in a layer of lipid-coated scales, repels liquid water and gives wool some natural water-resistance - at the same time. But it is also sensitive to heat, agitation and you have to be very careful about the source of the textile.
Check labels for care instructions, origin of the garments, but don not rely on them alone. Labels are general guidelines. Over time, experience with how certain fabrics behave becomes more valuable. The same goes for origin labels: “Made in Italy” might only mean the final step happened there - not the full production. If ethics matter to you - it should - look beyond the label. Choose brands that are transparent and you can trust.
Inspect the Seams (©picture: EdieLou)
Inspect the Seams: The Sign of Quality Craftsmanship
The first thing you should do when inspecting a garment is flip it over and examine the seams. High-quality garments often feature French seams or flat-felled seams, which are finished in a way that prevents fraying and ensures that the garment will hold up over time. These types of seams require additional labor but speak to the longevity of the garment. Of course they are raw finished edges. We all love it for its edge and honesty - thank you Margiela - it gives a garment contemporary, intentional feel. But even when it is a stylistic choice, it still deserves scrutiny. It the edge is not reinforced or the fabric is not stable, that raw look can quickly turn into wear that was not planned. A good raw finish is controlled, not careless.
On the other hand, low-quality fast fashion items often feature overlocked seams, which, although cheaper to produce, don’t hold up as well over time. This type of seam can unravel, and once it does, it can be very difficult to repair without leaving noticeable gaps. Furthermore, poorly finished seams often indicate that the overall construction of the garment may be rushed or subpar.
Pay attention to the way the fabric is stitched. Are the stitches even? Are they tight, or do they seem loose and prone to unraveling? A poorly sewn garment may fall apart after just a few washes, while a well-constructed item should stand the test of time if cared for properly. This is an essential detail in identifying both quality and longevity in a piece of clothing.
Steam or not to steam. That is the question. (©picture: EdieLou)
Caring for Your Investment: Why Maintenance Matters
Buying high-quality garments is an investment, and like any valuable asset, they need to be maintained properly. The better care you give to your pieces, the longer they will last, reducing your overall consumption. Proper garment care starts with understanding how to handle each type of fabric, and it’s essential to treat each one with the right care, whether it’s wool, linen, silk, or cotton.
Let’s start with a simple yet important question: Should you iron or steam your clothing? The answer depends on the fabric. For most delicate fabrics like silk or wool, steaming is usually preferred because it is gentler and won’t cause the fabric to lose its shape. Ironing, on the other hand, can be used on sturdier fabrics like cotton or linen but requires a precise touch to avoid scorching or distorting the fabric. Always read care labels and take the time to properly store your garments to extend their lifespan. But in genera, steaming is often gentler than ironing. It relaxes fibers without compressing or damaging them, and works well on most natural and synthetic fabrics. A steamer is also quick to use and reduces the need for frequent washing by refreshing garments between wears.
When it comes to washing, it’s essential to avoid over-drying your clothes in a tumble dryer, especially with natural fibers like wool, which can shrink if exposed to high heat. Instead, opt for air-drying, especially for delicate fabrics. The more careful you are with each garment, the less frequently you will need to replace items, and the longer your investment will last.
Proper storage is equally important. Hanging garments in an overcrowded closet can stretch them out, while folding them improperly can cause wrinkles that are difficult to remove. Ensure you have enough space to hang or store items neatly. For items that need to stay pressed, such as suits or dresses, use a proper garment bag to maintain their shape. Less is more.
And before you replace: repair. A small repair at the right time can save a garment. Loose threads, missing buttons, and minor holes are all manageable with basic sewing skills or professional help. Don’t wait for damage to worsen. Fixing issues early keeps garments functional and prevents them from becoming unwearable. Even with minimal skill, reattaching a button or tightening a loose hem can extend a garment’s life significantly. For anything more complicated—zipper replacements, reweaving, or structural damage—a tailor or alteration specialist is a worthwhile resource.
Holistic Approach to Fashion Consumption (©picture: EdieLou)
A Holistic Approach to Fashion Consumption
It’s easy to get caught up in the excitement of buying new clothes, but we must approach shopping with intention. Understanding the full lifecycle of a garment—from the materials used to its production process and final price—helps us become more conscientious consumers. It’s not just about purchasing less, but about purchasing better and caring for what we own.
When we choose to invest in pieces that are well-made, crafted from durable and sustainable fabrics, and carefully maintained, we shift our relationship with fashion from one of constant consumption to one of longevity and appreciation.
A sustainable approach to fashion isn’t just about choosing eco-friendly brands or avoiding fast fashion. It’s about rethinking our consumption patterns altogether—choosing quality over quantity and taking pride in the garments we own. By investing in quality pieces and properly caring for them, we can build a wardrobe that serves us long-term and leaves a smaller footprint on the planet.
Clothes that last aren´t just better for your wardrobe -they are better for your time, your money, and your sense of consistency. And over time, a well-kept piece becomes more than something you wear. It contributes to your sense of identity. Let it become part of your character - part of the way you build authenticity. Keeping clothes is not just practical, it becomes part of your personal branding - integrated gradually through use, care, and intention. And do not forget: there is always someone - actually, many people - behind the garment, working hard to make what we wear possible.
https://www.orellfuessli.ch/shop/home/artikeldetails/A1046584378
https://www.ihateironing.com/blog/laundry-symbols-explained/
https://www.thelaundryfixx.com/the-science-of-fabric-care-understanding-laundry-symbols/
https://www.abebooks.com/9783808562260/Clothing-Technology-Roland-Kilgus-Werner-3808562269/plp