pulp.
paper unites labyrinthine people.
PULP is the editorial voice of ELS - where fashion, culture and sustainability collide with curiosity and openness. It is a space for fresh ideas and thoughtful conversations, exploring the evolving landscape of conscious design and the dynamics of cultural issues.
We are here to question, reflect, and discover what the future can look like - whether through new materials or shifts in the industry and in society. PULP is a place to connect, grow, and be a part of the cultural zeitgeist, where inclusivity and diversity are at the heart of the conversation, as we collectively shape a more thoughtful, equitable future.
a FRIVOLOUS industry: Gender, labor, and fashion’s historical axis of devaluation
Fashion’s reputation as a frivolous industry is rooted in a long historical axis of devaluation. From antiquity through the industrial age, textile and garment production was indispensable to economic and cultural life, yet consistently dismissed because it was associated with women’s work. Spinning, weaving, and sewing were coded as unskilled or secondary, reducing essential labour to the level of vanity or excess. This dismissal became structurally entrenched, linking fashion’s material centrality with its cultural marginalisation.
That same logic persists today, but in globalised form. As production was displaced to the Global South, what remained visible in the North was not industry or craft, but consumption: shopping, advertising, and spectacle. The labour that sustains fashion has been obscured behind geographic distance and cultural hierarchies, just as women’s labour was once obscured behind gendered assumptions. Fashion is not trivial by nature; it has been made trivial by the systematic devaluation of the people and places upon which it depends.
the world’s most overlooked power system: fashion
Fashion is not a surface layer of culture; it is one of the most complex and far-reaching systems on the planet. Every garment begins in the soil - in the cotton fields, flax pastures, or sheep-grazed lands, and fossil-fuel extraction sites that anchor a global supply chain. From there, fibres move through water-intensive processing, chemical treatment, and multinational manufacturing before returning, often as waste, to the same ecosystems that produced them. To dismiss fashion as frivolous is to ignore its role in agriculture, climate resilience, water security, labour rights, and cultural identity. Its impacts rival those of the food system, yet it continues to escape the scrutiny, regulation, and urgency such scale demands.
This misperception is no accident. Historically trivialised through gendered and cultural biases, sustained by subconscious self-protection, and reinforced by an industry that benefits from its own underestimation, fashion remains misunderstood by strategic image management. But the stakes -ecological collapse, human exploitation, and the erosion of cultural diversity - are too high for indifference. If cultural narratives are redefined, education made systemic and interdisciplinary, and legislation made binding, fashion can shift from a driver of depletion to a force for regeneration. To understand fashion is to recognise that no one is outside it - and that to claim otherwise is to abdicate responsibility for one of the planet’s most powerful and consequential systems.

the fragile self and the cost of indifference: Empathy, identity, and the work of becoming truly human
What we often mistake for moral awakening is, in truth, a short cycle of performance - a flare of outrage, a gesture of care, a slogan in place of thought. Empathy, once a condition for civic life’s reduced to spectacle: emotionally charged, highly visible, but ultimately transient. True empathy - embedded, sustained, and ethically grounded - demands something more difficult: a coherent identity, capable of engaging with others without collapsing into fear or mimicry. It is embedded empathy. It is not just about feeling for others. It is about having enough internal solidarity - a well-formed moral core - to stay open without losing yourself. That requires reflection, emotional regulation, and ethical maturity. Without this kind of empathy, the self becomes reactive, brittle, and easily manipulated. This is not simply a psychological issue - it is a political emergency.
To rebuild identity on firmer ground, we must turn inward and outward at once: toward emotional literacy, moral development, and human dignity. The work begins where performance ends - in silence, in presence, in the slow cultivation of ethical autonomy. In a time of performative politics and algorithmic selfhood, the project of becoming truly human must reclaim its foundation: not identity as branding, but identity as responsibility. Not empathy as a trend, but as the ground of justice.
fashion’s next horizon: a future rooted in real value and regeneration
The fashion industry, as we all know by now, stands at a critical threshold. Long defined by speed, novelty, and spectacle, it now faces mounting pressure to confront the human and ecological costs of its own monuments. From outsourced labor and planetary overshoot to the cultural shallowness of trend-driven consumption, the system is exhausted - and so are the people within it. Yet despite decades of awareness, meaningful change remains slow, while ultra-fast fashion continues to rise. This article argues that true transformation demands more than innovation or emission pledges: it requires a redefinition of value itself.
Rooted in cultural analysis, design ethics, and economic insight, the piece traces how extractive models have shaped our perception of worth - and how regeneration must now guide the way forward. From early education to brand accountability, from labor justice to storytelling, fashion’s future lies not in faster cycles or symbolic gestures, but in structures that prioritize care, dignity, and purpose. What we wear is never just personal - is it political, systemic, and deeply human. And, of course, every garment borrows from finite planetary resources - water, soil, labor and energy.

and cinema created…beach: pampelonne, freedom, and the performance of identity
Long before it became a grid of curated sunbeams and algorithmic playlists, Pampelonne was a quiet coastal expanse - unclaimed, unmarked, and largely unseen. That changed in 1955 with the filming of Et Dieu…créa la femme. It projected onto the raw coastline a new symbolic register of freedom, sensuality, and authenticity. What began as a temporary canteen for the film crew quietly evolved into Club 55, through continuity, atmosphere, and genuine connection. Its significance emerged from simplicity; not from marketing but memory.
Over time, that atmosphere gave way to its opposite. Pampelonne today is a stage of mimicry, driven less by wealth than by the anxiety of appearing close to it The coastline has been segmented, not just physically but symbolically, into zones of curated identity - each one optimized for visual proof. What passes for luxury is often mass-market consumption in disguise: fast experiences, fast goods, fast relevance. And yet, the original logic of Club 55 still offers an alternative - not a return to the past, obviously, but a reorientation toward slower values: care, real connection, authenticity and the cultivation of identity. In an age of accelerated self-performance, that is the most radical luxury of all.
the weight of a handbag: the birkin bag and the economy of cultural capital
When Jane Birkin sketched a handbag on an airplane sick bag in 1983, she wasn’t drafting a luxury icon - she was voicing a practical need. But what emerged from that sketch became one of the most coveted status objects of the late 20th and early 21st centuries: the Birkin bag. More than a fashion accessory, the Birkin functions as a highly visible marker of cultural capital - a Veblen good whose desirability increases in proportion to its inaccessibility. Its ascent from practical tote to €8.6 million auction item was never just about design. It was about timing, trust, and the shifting values of luxury itself.
Its power lies not in ubiquity, but in selective access. Hermès never marketed the Birkin - instead, it built an economy of symbolic value where ownership is less about money than membership. To carry one is not simply to own a handbag, but to participate in a closed circuit of recognition. But if the object is to bear Jane Birkin’s name, it may also be considered in light of her values. Birkin’s legacy, shaped by artistic freedom and civic engagement, offers a subtle contrast to the bag’s role as a symbol of elite access. Seen this way, the Birkin’s significance may rest less in its capacity to signal wealth than in its potential, however limited, to reflect other forms of value.
fashion resistance: dapper dan, fubu, and the origin of ghetto fabulous
What began as subcultural defiance - crafted in Harlem boutiques, on street corners, in cipher circles and beauty salons - has become a global aesthetic. Fashion once turned its back on the styles born in Black communities, dismissing them as loud, unsophisticated, or off-brand. But from oversized logos to monogram maximalism, the very look that was once policed and pushed to the margins now walks runways and headlines campaigns. It wasn’t simply adopted - it was amplified. And the man who laid its blueprint, Dapper Dan, watched the industry that once tried to erase him come back. Fashion came full circle.
This is not just about fashion - it is about visibility, authorship, dignity, and endurance. From Dapper Dan’s boutique on 125th Street to FUBU’s ascent in suburban malls, Black designers didn’t wait for permission - they created their own systems of value. Ghetto fabulous wasn’t just excess; it was assertion: a way to be seen in a world that tried to make you invisible. Dan didn’t follow rules - he made his own, and in doing so, redrew the map of contemporary style. His story is a reminder that culture always moves faster than the industries that profit from it. And for anyone who’s ever felt shut out or underestimated, his legacy speaks clearly: stay in your lane - even if you have to build the road yourself.
A new loop: toward a fashion system that starts with less
The garments we discard are not merely physical waste - they are the residual architecture of an economic and cultural systems, from regenerative fiber cultivation to high-tech sorting and logistics, are essential responses to this crisis. These systems play an increasingly vital role in managing textile waste - but their growing effectiveness also reveals a deeper tension: without addressing the root causes of overproduction and overconsumption, even the best recycling efforts may only treat the symptoms, not the source.
To make real progress, the transformation must extend beyond infrastructure. Designers have a critical role to play in reshaping the front end of fashion - by eliminating unrecyclable blends, minimizing waste through smart digital prototyping, and aligning production with actual demand. Consumers, too, are not exempt: circularity depends on buying less, wearing longer, and rethinking clothing not as an ephemeral good, but as an investment in identity, use, and material ethics. A future with less waste will not be achieved solely by managing its aftermath, but by choosing - collectively - to generate less in the first place.
clothes that speak: how fashion writes culture
Fashion is often dismissed as frivolous, but it is, in fact, one of the most powerful tools we have for expressing identity, negotiating social norms, and tracing cultural memory. Drawing from historic continuity theory and symbolic interactionism, this article explores how clothing functions not merely as ornament, but as language - encoding values, affiliations, and aspirations through material form. From empire waists to digital streetwear, what we wear tells a story: about who we are, where we’ve been, and what a society deems legible, respectable, or rebellious.
In the age of algorithmic visibility, fashion’s symbolic function intensifies. As garments circulate across platforms, their meanings are refracted, remixed, and recontextualized - often faster than institutions can keep up. But this fluidity doesn’t erase fashion’s structure; it amplifies it. Every outfit becomes a negotiation between individual agency and cultural code, between echo and present performance. Whether reviving past aesthetics or subverting norms, fashion remains a dynamic site where identity, memory, and meaning converge - not passively, but actively shaping how culture sees itself.

before pride: the long arc of queer resistance
Across centuries and cultures, queer and trans lives have endured not only systemic repression but deliberate erasure. This piece traces the long arc of that history - from ancient civilizations where diverse expressions of gender and sexuality were integrated into social life, through the moral regimes of the Christian Church and state structures that criminalized and suppressed them. It follows how, even under threat, queer lives found continuity. It revisits the cultural double standards of the early modern period, where gender nonconformity was condemned in public but performed on stage; where female partnerships like Boston marriages were tolerated only because they were misread by patriarchal norms.
Drawing on political theory and the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, the article argues that queer identity is not a special positioning but a human birthright. Judith Butler’s work helps frame the ongoing backlash as a reaction to the exposure of how fragile normative systems truly are. In this light, Pride is a political structure - a collective insistence that dignity, autonomy, and recognition should not be depend on permission, they are not rewards, but fundamental aspects of what it means to be human.
from noise to meaning: how to re-build fashion with value at the core
Following last week’s analysis of how fashion conglomerates like LVMH and Kering have consolidated the industry and, in doing so, contributed to its creative exhaustion, this article turns to what comes next. The saturation of legacy luxury has unintentionally created blank space - a rare strategic opening for a different kind of brand-building: one defined by clarity, authorship, and cultural value rather than scale or spectacle.
This piece explores how that opportunity can be meaningfully pursued. Rather than positioning emerging designers as a countercultural niche only, we examine how can a new model be built from the ground up - structurally coherent, ethically aligned, and creatively sovereign? With reference to thinkers like Seth Godin, Clayton Christensen, and Pierre Bourdieu, we outline a new possibility for brand creation - one that understands value not only as visibility, but as the capacity to matter, to endure, and to signal meaning.
when maison became a machine: how conglomerates industrialized luxury
As luxury conglomerates continue to scale, what they offer becomes increasingly standardised: fast-paced collections, rotating creative directors, and high-visibility branding optimized for global markets. In the process, much of what once gave luxury its cultural and emotional weight - authorship, risk, intimacy - has been diluted. What remains is a system that is commercially may be efficient but creatively exhausted.
This shift has created space for an alternative approach to luxury - one focused less on expansion and more on intentionality. Emerging brands are building around authenticity and identity, emphasizing creativity and meaning over volume and visibility. They are producing in smaller quantities with the main focus to craft and the creative process. Sustainability, in this context, is not a positioning tool but a foundational practice. Their value proposition is based on coherence, care, and long-term trust with a defined audience that values craftsmanships and labor. To read more about the evolving landscape of fashion, authorship, and value beyond the mainstream luxury model, continue to the full article.
The rainbow and the sunset: a dance between desire and the void
Los Angeles doesn´t run on tradition - it runs on transformation. And nowhere is that more visible than the Sunset Strip. A stretch of asphalt barely two miles long, it is long been the frontline of America´s imagination industry: where film met fame, music met movement, and self-invention became viable currency. It is where self-invention became a form of capital - and the right image could be your currency.
Tucked into that mythology sits the Rainbow Bar & Grill. Not just a rock relic, but a working cultural node where status doesn´t gate access. In a city built on curated visibility, the Rainbow remains in a very special way open. This article explores how the Rainbow functions as a true “third place”, why that matters in L.A.´s creative ecosystem, and how its ethos reflects the broader architecture of ambition that defines Hollywood and the Strip itself.
cannes 2025 and the red carpet crackdown: fashion, power, and the politics of control
In May 2025, the Cannes Film Festival introduced a new dress code banning sheer fabrics and oversized silhouettes from its red carpet. The policy was framed as a matter of decorum and safety. But the policy raised broader questions about visibility, autonomy, and the politics of public appearance. For a festival originally conceived in 1939 - as a cultural answer to fascist interference in the arts - the decision marked a subtle but significant departure. What began as a defence of creative freedom now appears to be regulating the very forms of presence it once helped legitimize. The ban also runs counter to the aesthetic legacy of Jane Birkin - whose visually influential appearances in the late 1960s and early ´70s helped establish a new vocabulary of feminine visibility- one marked by ease, transparency, authenticity, and identity.
This article traces that evolution. From Brigitte Bardot´s early bikini-clad photo shoots to Birkin´s gowns and informal ease. Cannes has long been a space where fashion, film and art intersect with broader questions of identity and representation. It has long been shaped by individuals whose choices expanded the boundaries of public appearance. What they introduced was authorship - an unspoken challenge to the idea that elegance must be regulated. In tracing these shifts, the article considers what it means to appear now, and what may be lost when institutions quietly redraw the frame.

Subculture: outside the frame
Subcultures have never been solely about aesthetics. They emerge when dominant culture fails to provide space for complexity, contradiction, or recognition. Whether through language, music, clothing, or shared rituals, subcultures create alternative systems of meaning. From the early figure of the Black Dandy, whose self-styling challenged racial visibility, to the emergence of punk, hip hop, and rave scenes, these movements have served as sites of both expression and survival.
As cultural critique bell hooks argued, dominant culture has a long history of absorbing the visual codes of subcultures while ignoring the social and political conditions that produced them. Style becomes branding. History is erased. What remains is a commercial version of resistance, stripped of its urgency and repackaged for mass appeal.
And yet, subcultures persist. They adapt, retreat, reconfigure. Whether online or offline, public or deliberately hidden, they continue to offer something mainstream culture cannot: a structure for identity built from within. Not performance or market logic - just belonging shaped by risk, recognition, and intent.
Culture in motion: the met gala, costume institute, and the politics of cultural legacy
The Met Gala is one of the most visible cultural events of the year - part “red” carpet, part museum benefit, part performance. But behind the spectacle lies a structure rarely discussed: the Costume Institute, the only department within the Metropolitan Museum of Art that must fund itself entirely.this article examines how the Met Gala underwrites that responsibility, turning fashion into a public archive through a private, high-stakes ritual of visibility and capital.
More than a commentary on celebrity or couture, the piece looks at the deeper implications of how museums are funded - comparing the Met´s hybrid model with publicly supported institutions in Europe and elsewhere. It asks what is gained and what is compromised when cultural preservation is tied to exclusivity, spectacle, and donor preference. And it considers whether private sponsorship may, in some cases, create space for more pointed, timely curatorial choices, and real-time cultural gestures than slower, more bureaucratically cautious public models allow.
This is not a “red” carpet critique, nor a costume review. It is an inquiry into infrastructure - how institutions remember, who they empower, and what fashion´s place is in cultural history costs. Read the full piece to follow the money, the memory, and the questions behind the gowns.

Built to stay: A practical guide to clothes that last
We are constantly told to consume more carefully - but less often shown what that actually looks like. Especially when it comes to clothing. Most people do not abandon garments because they are truly worn out. They let them go because of small failures, or simply boredom. And in a culture built on speed and replacement, even expensive wardrobes have started to feel disposable.
Conscious consumption is everywhere, we talk about sustainability - a lot. But where to start or end - without bad conscious, of course?
This article offers a practical, design-aware guide to extending the life of your garments - starting from the moment you buy them. From inspecting construction and fabrics, to understanding seams, washing with care, storing properly, and repairing when needed.
Care is not just precious and practical but it is a way to letting garments become part of your story - your identity.
Voice in the Void: Dressing with Sartre
What does a trench coat have in common with a philosophical argument? What can a slip dress tell us about autonomy? This article unfolds at the intersection of existentialism and aesthetics., drawing on the work of Jean-Paul Sartre and John Berger to examine ow clothing becomes a site of authorship, intention, and identity. From the white shirt to the bomber jacket, the garments we return to again and again aren´t just “timeless” - they are structurally and semantically rich. They allow us to present ourselves clearly in a culture built to reduce identity to trends and surface impressions.
We are seen - by others, by systems, by ourselves. And whether we acknowledge it or not, how we dress plays a central role in that visibility. Clothing is never neutral. It shapes perception. It structures first impressions. It becomes part of the self we are building. When you choose what to wear, you are not just covering a body. You are constructing an image, a stance, a signal. Some garments obscure. Others reveal. The ones - chosen with clarity, worn with repetition - help build something stronger: a visual identity that communicates without explanation.
Discover more - if you have ever stood in front of the mirror and wondered not just what to wear, but who you are showing up as. If you have felt that quiet pull toward clarity, toward something that feels like you - not a trend, not a performance, just something honest. This might be worth your time.

punk as a symptom of sanity: On refusal & authorship
There are moments in culture that don´t announce themselves. They don´t brand, perform, or build consensus. They just hold. And in that holding, something shifts. Punk was one of those moments - not just as a genre or a style, but as a structural interruption. I did not just introduce a look. It introduced a position: one where identity didn´t have to be decoded to be real. It surfaced in friction - between systems, expressions and surveillance. It created a form of ontological autonomy that refused the cultural, institutional, and aesthetic frameworks demanding identity be coherent, compliant, and consumable.
Drawing from figures like Jordan, Vivienne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren, and the infrastructure of early punk, this article examines how punk held space for presence in its own language. How it enacted authorship, and created conditions in which people could exist without being positioned - socially, economically, or politically.
But why is it still relevant today - because it obviously is, the aesthetic is everywhere. It is visible. It never left. Designers still reference it. Brands still borrow from it. The look circulates constantly. Why does it still pull people in? Why are we fascinated by it? Why does it continue to matter, long after its supposed moment actually passed? To find out more and get closer to the answer dive in and explore the full article.

born into this: the generation box
Generational categories are everywhere -structuring the way we speak, market, hire, politicize, and organize identity. They’ve become a default language for difference, offering the illusion of insight while quietly reinforcing limitation. What once may have been convenient shorthand has hardened into something more restrictive. Shaping hiring decisions, media narratives, even our sense of belonging. They flatten nuance, reinforce lazy stereotypes, and distract us from what actually defines people: their values, experiences, and ideas.
This article interrogates the quiet architecture behind that system - how labels become social scripts, how identity is shaped. It takes a closer look at how those categories work - and what they cost us. Drawing from social psychology, cultural theory, and lived experience, it explores how generational thinking simplifies identity and distracts us from more meaningful questions.
If you have ever felt reduced to a type, or watched real complexity get lost in cliché - this is worth your time. Because being boxed in by your birth year isn´t just unhelpful. It is tired. And it is time to move on.